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The Ace Series: Your complete, in-depth guide to drivers

Whether you’re a seasoned golfer, or you're getting to grips with the game for the very first time, at golfclubs4cash we know that learning everything you need to know about golf can be more than a little intimidating.

We’re here to help, and inspired by our commitment to making golf accessible for all we’re launching the Ace Series - in-depth golf guides that tells you everything you need to know in a clear and easy-to-digest way.

We begin with drivers, so get ready to go in-depth as we zoom in on everything you need to know about golf drivers through the ages.

Psst. If you’re looking to buy a particular used driver, you’ll find our unbeatable range hard to beat on both quality or price! To learn more about drivers, start here and then check out our guide to buying a second hand driver for more factors to take into account. You’ll be acing your shots in no time at all!

The absolute basics of a golf driver

Your driver, sometimes also known as the 1-wood, is the club in your bag with the biggest head and the longest shaft. It’s designed with speed and distance in mind, and specifically for playing off the tee, to get you as close to the hole as possible in your first shot. It’s one of the three most important golf clubs in your bag, and since you’re only allowed up to 14 clubs, the driver you choose is important to get right. The only other time you’d use a driver, of course, is to practise your swing on the driving range.

Looking for a new driver? Browse our latest stock below.

The complete history of golf drivers - from then to now

The use of a driver in golf goes back over 100 years, and its evolution has three key periods which we’ll go into in more detail shortly. The first thing you need to know about drivers is that they started life being called a ‘play club’, and sometimes a ‘grass club’ or a ‘long club’.

They were made from wood that was often hand-shaped (hence the 1-wood classification) - usually persimmon wood - and this didn’t change through the 1970s right up to the mid-1980s. Faceplates made of metal (usually brass) were screwed into the wooden chassis of the driver. This plate reinforced the wood, mainly to strengthen it and preserve it from damage, but also to give the ball more velocity and distance. Demand for drivers and other golf equipment at this point was fairly low, as golf hadn’t quite taken off in popularity yet.

In the late 70s and early 80s, demand for better drivers rose significantly, and for the first time, manufacturers began to introduce steel. TaylorMade introduced one of the first original metal-headed drivers (called the 1Metal). Being much stronger than wood and easier to manufacture in large quantities, steel not only met the demand but also began to enhance golfers’ performance.

Then came the golf boom of the early 1990s, and keen golfers began to focus far more on what improvements could be made to their game by tweaking their golf equipment. By the late 90s titanium began to be introduced as a head material, and brands also started to introduce graphite for the shaft (it had traditionally been steel). The benefits to these adjustments were huge - the lighter graphite offered far greater weight-saving properties, and the enhanced strength of the titanium created a perfect combination for golfers to achieve considerably more distance.

In 2002-2003, as a direct response to the huge increments in distance that all golfers were achieving, the governing bodies (both the R&A and the USGA) worked together to reduce the driver clubface’s COR (Coefficient of Restitution - a measurement of the energy loss or retention when two objects collide) to control distance. This reduced what was called ‘the trampoline effect’ for both professional and amateur golfers.

There was one driver that became notorious through this time - the Callaway ERC driver. When the legislation for amateur golfers was enforced in 2008, a lot of pre-existing drivers were banned - so you could tell if a player was using a prohibited driver (and therefore cheating, with or without their own knowledge!).

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In 2002-2003, as a direct response to the huge increments in distance that all golfers were achieving, the governing bodies (both the R&A and the USGA) worked together to reduce the driver clubface’s COR (Coefficient of Restitution - a measurement of the energy loss or retention when two objects collide) to control distance. This reduced what was called ‘the trampoline effect’ for both professional and amateur golfers.

There was one driver that became notorious through this time - the Callaway ERC driver. When the legislation for amateur golfers was enforced in 2008, a lot of pre-existing drivers were banned - so you could tell if a player was using a prohibited driver (and therefore cheating, with or without their own knowledge!).

There are still many ‘banned’ drivers in circulation today, which you wouldn’t be allowed to use in a competitive scenario, only a recreational one. However, a legal driver these days will always outperform a non-conforming, illegal driver because the advent of technology has allowed manufacturers to circumvent legislation that compromised performance.

How to use a driver

When you’re teeing off, take time to perfect your stance and remember everything you’ve learned in your golf lessons and on the driving range. When it comes to using a driver, your stance is everything. Check out our five top tips for improving your golf swing for ways to finetune your technique, including firming up your balance, relaxing your grip and prioritising technique over power.

A good golf swing broken down.

The anatomy of a good golf swing - step by step

Drivers for different abilities

Your choice of driver is always a personal one, but there are certain features to look out for depending on whether you are a beginner, an intermediate or advanced golfer. We’ve split it out below:

Which golf drivers are best for beginner golfers?

Those who are new to golf and/or playing at the highest handicaps (check out our guide to how golf handicaps work for more information on this) will prioritise drivers that offer enhanced ease of use (the golf term for this is ‘forgiveness’). This is not least to minimise the number of balls lost due to badly played shots.

They’ll be looking for drivers with a high MOI (Moment of Inertia) which is a driver head that offers a certain amount of stability and resistance to twisting when a ball is hit off-centre - a common issue for beginners. Beginners might even look to find drivers with geometric shapes from yesteryear (there was a trend around 2011-2014 where brands like Nike and Cleveland used square-headed drivers to provide maximum forgiveness).

Which golf drivers are best for intermediate golfers?

While absolute beginners focus on accuracy and ease of use, intermediate players begin to consider distance (there can be some crossover here as some beginners like to prioritise distance too). Intermediate players are looking for a driver that not only delivers a good amount of forgiveness, but that can also get the ball as far down the fairway as possible.

To get distance, you need speed, and faster drivers have been achieved through a number of innovations in equipment technology. More recently, brands have introduced a lot of carbon into the crown of their clubhead construction. The TaylorMade Stealth model even uses carbon in the clubface which offers a certain amount of flexion to help ‘trampoline’ the ball off the face and get the ball further down the hole.

For intermediate golfers, the weight of the club also becomes more important for speed and distance, and engineers are always searching for ways to save weight in different parts of the clubhead. They’ll identify where weight might be wasted and look for ways to reposition the weight to help propel the ball forward.

Open, closed and square stances in golf

Which golf drivers are best for advanced golfers?

That level of adjustability allows the golfer to choose the best face angle to suit their stance (pointing open, closed or neutral/square). Not only that, but high levels of adjustability also help achieve the most effective loft to achieve optimal launch conditions. This ensures that the ball launches at an optimal angle above the horizon line, and also rotates at an optimum number of revolutions.

The technical aspects of a golf driver

You can see above that adjustability really is about the tiny elements of finesse and personalisation that can be added to a driver by an advanced player looking to fine tune their equipment. But that doesn’t mean that adjustability isn’t a priority for players of other abilities, too. That’s mainly because this sort of golf club innovation is something of a trend, and these days around 50% of all drivers will feature some level of adjustability - almost every major brand over the last ten years has made adjustability an important consideration.

At golfclubs4cash, we believe that adjustability isn’t just something that serves advanced golfers - it is something that can be experimented with by golfers of all abilities. But if you’re a beginner who’s tempted by a driver purely because of its adjustability, you’re probably better off focusing on forgiveness.

Within the rules of golf, you’re not allowed to adjust any of your golf clubs mid-round in any tournament or competitive game. The only exception to that is when you’re playing just recreationally and want to experiment with different adjustments. This is mainly because adjusting a club mid-round gives a competitive advantage by allowing players to react to their shortcomings or weather conditions etc., but it’s also because it can slow golfers down on their rounds and hold up those behind.

Forgiveness in drivers

When you’re reading up about a particular club’s performance in reviews etc., forgiveness is always mentioned. Forgiveness, particularly in drivers, is such an important topic that it deserves its own section in our in-depth guide to drivers.

These days, there are very few drivers that haven’t been designed with the maximum cubic capacity/volume of clubhead in mind - and that’s why you’ll never see forgiveness going backwards, unless the rules of golf change the allowable size of clubheads, that is.

The clubhead size limit according to the rules of golf is 460 cubic centimetres (usually seen written as ‘cc’). Around 30 years ago in previous wooden versions of the driver, a 460cc clubhead would have been an impossibility due to the extra mass, weight and density it would have meant. With the advent of titanium and carbon, it became possible to save a lot of weight without compromising the integrity of the club, and therefore forgiveness was enhanced. These days, engineering innovation and lighter materials mean that in a larger head, mass can be distributed in the extremities of the head, reducing twist when the ball is hit off-centre. Drivers are now generally between 440-460cc.

Length of drivers

Typically, drivers - like all other clubs - are designed with the average person in mind. The length of a golf driver’s shaft will be identified considering the build of the average male/female/junior golfer. In general, around 45” seems to be the average length of a driver and that’s not changed for 25-30 years (note that shaft length itself is rarely referred to; instead, the club length is measured as a whole).

As the golf club gets longer, the distance between the clubhead and the fulcrum (the fulcrum in this instance is the person hitting the ball) increases. As the radius increases the club travels faster, so a longer shaft can mean more clubhead speed. However, a longer shaft is also harder to wield, so manufacturers have looked to identify ways to use shorter specifications to hit the ball straight. The driving force (if you’ll excuse the pun) for this all comes from marketing. If you think about it, brands want their drivers to perform well and therefore sell more. A shorter shaft means straighter shots, so the club will gain a good reputation.

Shaft material and flex

As we discovered earlier, shafts can be made from steel or more recently graphite. Think of it as a similar journey to that of racket sports - racquets were traditionally made of willow or a similar wood. That brought challenges in consistency and reproduction of the shape. Introducing a graphite handle delivered huge weight-saving benefits without sacrificing the structural integrity.

In terms of drivers, an average steel shaft would weigh around 100 grams, and the average graphite equivalent reduces to 60 grams - that’s a 30-40% weight saving for a faster swing. Graphite also brings shock-absorbing qualities too, so it has big appeal for golfers with ailments, along with senior and female golfers.

Flex is a commonly misunderstood variable when considering club shafts. Most shafts are banded into 4 or 5 categories, - the most flexible being ladies’ golf clubs, followed by seniors (abbreviated to A or M flex), then men’s regular (which makes up around 80% of the market), then stiff, and then extra stiff, also known as ‘tour flex’ or ‘xflex’ (which only makes up 1% of the market).

The more the shaft is designed to flex, the more it bends under less effort. Conversely, the stiffer the shaft, the less it bends under extreme effort, So, golfers with faster swing speeds will typically choose a stiffer flex. Slower swing speeds will need more flex.

The physics of a golf ball

Driver speed and distance

To understand driver speed and distance, it’s time for your physics lesson! Speed is essentially a byproduct of reduced friction and enhanced velocity. So, for a reduced speed you need to generate more spin (and spin is a byproduct of friction).

As for distance, a driver has a low loft and therefore creates less friction, which gives the ball more resistance to wind etc.

The COR which we talked about earlier (Coefficient of Restitution) is only relevant for golf clubs with 14 degrees of loft or less.

For those clubs with more than 14 degrees, incrementally more spin is created due to the higher loft. As a result, the ‘trampoline effect’ doesn’t serve the same purpose, and that’s why it’s impossible for a 3-wood (for example) to travel further than a driver.

angle-of-attack

Driver accessories

A good grip on your driver will help you swing through the ball with precision, power and most of all confidence, and it’ll also help with accuracy and distance - so finding a good-quality golf club grip for your driver will serve you well. And don’t forget to invest in a good quality golfing glove, too. These two accessories will help you maintain consistency and quality of swing in all conditions.

And don’t forget that no matter which driver you’re playing with, it’s important to invest in a good-quality headcover for protection, and carry out regular golf club maintenance to keep it performing at its best.

How much should I spend on a driver?

New drivers can cost more than £4-500 each, so most golfers opt for a second hand option that saves them money and also enables them to try different models out. There are plenty of advantages to buying second hand golf equipment, especially that it’s a low-cost way of getting into the game.

Which are the leading driver brands?

We hope you’ve found this detailed guide to drivers helpful, and our in-house experts are more than happy to answer any further questions you may have. One of the things we are most regularly asked is which golfing brands lead the field when it comes to drivers? The answer is not simple, in that most of the big brands have more than a couple of flagship drivers that can often be seen in the hands of the world’s best golfers. Find out more about individual brands in our Brand Focus series.

We’ve packaged up a list of our biggest hitters of 2022, our best-selling drivers by brand and check in our What’s In the Bag section to find out the drivers of choice for top-flight professionals like Rory McIlroy.

More resources

And don’t forget our ultimate guide to buying a second hand driver which will help you find your perfect driver and give you some important factors to consider.

Browse our entire range of top-quality used drivers, and get in touch if you have any questions at all!

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